The battery and reliability issues you have mentioned put this one off the list then! I'd kill for a L or the money to buy one with! Thanks again. Chris, what is your budget? I'm sure there is a good recommendation we can give, that will get you by.
Gossen's are also great meters. I also have a little Gossen Digilux that has incident and reflective metering, and I carry it with me as a small backup meter. If your budget only allows for the Minolta, then take your chances and see if it works for you.
Or you can go to mode NON. It will wait for 1 minute before resetting itself. You can read in either EV or f-stop mode, you change this with the display selector button next to the ISO button. Make sure that when taking flash pictures you have your camera and your meter set to no faster than the flash sync speed! Dec 5, I'm not sure how to get into the head or I'd go for it. DeOxit won't harm plastic. I've sprayed contacts and switches on my vintage reel to reel and receivers with no adverse effects.
Keep in mind that the silicon cell is just below that switch. Proceed with caution! After pushing the pin in abut 50 times it seems to be doing better.
So not a bad deal after all! Messages: 4, I've never heard of DeOxit. Definately safe on electronic devices and plastics. DeOxit is the best stuff in the world for electronics. BTW-Thanks guys for the recommendations about the pin and removing the disc for measurements I'll test it a little more tomorrow in brighter conditions. I wouldn't have thought about that little pin doing much of nothing.
Dec 6, There used to be an optional flat diffuser for the Auto meter as an alternative to the dome for making reflected light meter readings Dead Link Removed. Last edited by a moderator: Dec 6, Today I tried it out and it reads about one stop less exposure than the other meter, almost consistently.
I had seen that reflective light attachment late last night and ordered it as last night the meter was closer to the readings with the other meter than today in brighter light.
I tried it in the shade and in bright light and it would read at f16 whereas the other one was at f Now you want a ratio meaning you want the fill flash to be one stop less, so you still get shadows, but not too strong you would take a reading of the fill light and adjust accordingly either by adjusting the power of the flash, or by changing the distance until the reading reads F8. Set your camera for the main light f11 and shoot And voila Now there are quite a bit of other things for you to learn, but this is pretty basic and shows theuse of the meter If I was happy to bracket each shot, I would just calculate distance measurements and forget about a meter!
Since studio flash is my prime requirement for the meter, I think I need the Flashmeter. Can someone please give some feedback as I am starting to get lost. I do not have an aversion to older equipment everything I use is over 20 years old! Finally, is fill flash relatively easy to work out with any of these? Now this does help, but I wonder if it is correct. Yes it is the correct way to meter.
Measure your main light first and then adjust the fill or other lights around that initial reading. You do this because changing your main light settings will have more of an influence on the lesser settings than vice versa. Also, and this is crucial, measure with all of your lights firing at once, do not measure them one at a time Doing the latter will lead to some unexpected results as you will be cancelling out how all of the lights influence any one area, especially if you are working in a small space.
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